![]() ![]() Once you’ve set the anchor, pulling it up or “weighing anchor” should be easy. Check these points frequently to make sure you’re not drifting. Once the anchor is set, take note of any reference points (landmarks) in relation to the boat. This is especially important in areas where the bottom has a layer of sand and grass. ![]() Once you feel the anchor begin to dig in and set, put the engine in idle reverse and back down on the anchor to secure it to the bottom. Wrap the rode once or twice around a cleat and keep your hands well clear. With the anchor rode out and the boat in the intended swing zone, secure the rode and let the anchor dig in and stop the boat. If you’re anchoring in strong winds, you may actually have to put the engine in forward gear to control the speed and direction of backward drift. This ensures that your anchor, chain, and rope stay straight and don’t become tangled. Keep tension on the anchor rode as you pay it out to keep the bow of the boat pointed toward the anchor. ![]() Then, with your boat heading into the wind (or current, if that is stronger) move into the area, put your engine in idle and bring your boat to a stop with the bow just forward of where you intend to drop anchor. Secure your anchor to the bow cleat at the point on the line where you want it to stop. For example, if the water is eight feet deep and it is two feet from the surface of the water to your bow cleat, you would multiply 10 feet by 5 or 7 to get the amount of anchor line to put out. The general rule is five to seven times as much line as the depth of water plus the distance from the surface of the water to where the anchor will attach to the bow. Calculate the amount of anchor line you will need to let out. Determine the water depth and type of bottom (preferably sand or mud). Be sure to check your chart to make sure there are no cables, wrecks or obstructions on the bottom to foul your line. Location: Choose an Area Clear of Boats and Underwater Obstacles.ĭecide on an area to drop anchor that is clear of other vessels and any obstacles. Anchoring is an easy task if you follow these guidelines:ġ. But in bad weather, or if you experience engine failure, the only alternative to setting the anchor may be washing ashore or drifting out to sea. There are certainly going to be times when you’ll want to stop in a sheltered spot for swimming, fishing, lunch, or an overnight stay. Knowing how to anchor safely is an important seamanship skill that every boat operator needs to master. That reminds me keeping a spare anchor on board is not a bad idea either. I will argue that the most important thing to remember is never to anchor from the stern – although I must admit that tossing your anchor in the drink without first attaching it to the boat will make you feel pretty foolish. All would agree that boat operators should be very careful when anchoring their boat. Or the one that simply dropped it on his foot. Or the guy who fumbled the anchor and punched a hole in the bottom of his boat. Just ask the guy who threw his anchor over the side without first attaching it to the line. ![]() Anchoring at the stern also makes the boat vulnerable to swamping by wave action.īoaters make a lot of anchoring mistakes and it’s a matter of debate as to which occur most often. In a strong current, that added weight and the force of the water could pull the stern under. Plus the stern may be carrying the added weight of a motor, fuel tank, passengers and gear brought on board. The reason is that the transom is usually squared off and has less freeboard than the bow. I’ve since learned that anchoring by the stern has caused many boats – small boats especially – to capsize and sink. Fortunately I was one of the lucky ones and didn’t lose the boat. After all, it seemed so convenient, and that cleat on the port quarter was in the perfect spot. Sure, I’d heard the warning plenty of times, but nobody ever told me why. I’m the guy that didn’t heed the warning to never anchor by the stern. In agreement with the original answer obtained using the control volume of Fig. All of the horizontal normal and tangential forces exerted on the fluid and the pipe bend are resolved and combined into the two resultant components, F_)=-1324 lb Note that the weight of the water is vertical (in the negative z direction) and does not contribute to the x and y components of the anchoring force. The horizontal forces acting on the contents of this control volume are identified in Fig. E5.7 a ) contains the bend and the water in the bend at an instant. Since we want to evaluate components of the anchoring force to hold the pipe bend in place, an appropriate control volume (see dashed line in Fig. ![]()
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